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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.